The Kooyong vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong, on Miocene sedimentary soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.
The 2013-2014 growing season started with a warm winter followed by strong early season growth and an early spring with above average temperatures. An extended cold and wet period in October and November lead to a prolonged flowering period with reduced fruit set, resulting in below average yields.
This cold period continued throughout December, finally broken by a warm summer with several heat waves during the month of January. A warm February and the lower yields brought an earlier than usual start to harvest.
Mild March weather and the lower yields made for a short and steady harvest for both our viticultural and winery teams.
While yields were low, the quality of the fruit was very high producing wines that impress with depth, length and linear direction.
Tasted June 2016
This single-block wine is sourced from 1.57 hectares of 18-year-old vines, within, as the name suggests, the most sheltered of all our vineyard sites. The lack of exposure to strong winds allows the vines to keep a rich green canopy until comparatively late in the ripening period and the resulting Haven wines always possess fruit in the more purplish spectrum, with a certain richness and lushness yet a firm underlying tannic structure. This block (6.88 ha in total) is broken down into seven different parcels, with the same two parcels historically being selected for this wine. Fermentation is entirely destemmed and took place in large-format concrete tank. Fermentation commenced without yeast inoculation and lasted for 19 days. Following fermentation, the wine was pressed and racked into French oak barriques (of which 22% were new) and underwent indigenous malolactic fermentation. The wine was racked only once, with the total maturation period lasting 16 months. It was then bottled without fining or filtration.
This vintage has delivered a textbook Haven nose of brooding black cherry, dark Christmas spices and a slight earthy edge. On the palate, the wine delivers a taut, linear backbone surrounded by the calm texture and flow that is its hallmark. The great length of the palate is tied together with red cherry and loganberry flavours and a strong, stony conclusion.
It rises to power on the back of meaty, weighty, black cherried fruit flavour, though notes of dried spice, smoky oak and tangy cranberry certainly contribute to the ascension. Ropes of tannin are the parliament in which the flavour cavorts. The outstanding form of this wine continues.
The highlight of Kooyong’s 2014 pinots is a savoury and understated style of fine, mineral tannins, dried herb complexity and a subtle undercurrent of red fruit persistence. Tannins are finely structured and well balanced.
Substantial pinot. Well cut and well polished too. Tannin spreads and fills and brings both fruit and savoury flavour with it. Real deal.